Explore the historic Filoli mansion near San Francisco

For me, a cozy evening usually consists of a cup of tea, a dessert, and a gorgeous period drama.The pandemic has brought many nights, most of them by Julie Andrews in ‘Bridgerton’ about the Regency scandal or upstairs in ‘Downton Abbey’ The raucous soundtrack of the next drama.Most recently, Monday night was watching Christine Baranski chew and rant about her social underlings in the Gilded Age.In a time of feeling disgraceful, lavish clothing and scenery are a comfort.Imagine my surprise when I learned there was a historic Georgian Revival estate and gardens in my home south that dwarfed a lot of this on-screen fun.
Filoli Historic House & Garden is a sprawling country estate built between 1915 and 1917 in Woodside, California (about 30 minutes south of San Francisco).Designed by architect Willis Polk, the elegant 54,256-square-foot mansion at its center has its own film and television career; most famously, it represents the Carrington Estate from the prime-time soap opera Dynasty.
But long before that, it was home to two wealthy families who contributed to the Bay Area’s rise as an economic powerhouse: Burns and Ross.Since the estate opened to the public in the late 1970s, its lavish exterior and artful formal and informal gardens have made it a popular getaway.Its exhibits change with the seasons, showing how the estate operates when it is in a private residence.
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The heir to the imperial gold-mining fortune, William Ballsbourne II, purchased land outside San Francisco in 1915 and hired his friend Polk to design the sprawling country retreat.Byrne and his wife Agnes built the house and gardens to accommodate lavish entertainment.The couple hosted parties, concerts and dances in the mansion’s over 2,000-square-foot ballroom.Both Burns died in 1936, and William P. Roth and his wife, shipping heiress Lurline, purchased the 654-acre estate.The Ross family has enhanced the estate’s botanical collection and added elements such as a swimming pool to its 16-acre garden.Lurline Roth donated the property to the National Trust for Historic Preservation in 1975, declaring it “too beautiful to be private”.
Visitors enter the estate through its grand driveway and can take a self-guided tour of the mansion.The route goes through a foyer, porch, library and a ballroom where they can hear a lively period waltz.From the humble servants quarters to the elegant living and reception rooms, the tour is filled with informative placards explaining the use of each room.The opulent interiors of the mansion are windows into a bygone era.But it’s the botanical wonder of the garden — and frankly, the vibe — that keeps me coming back time and time again.
Ferroli is relatively modern compared to centuries-old homes such as Highclere Castle, which represents a veritable estate in “Downton Abbey”.”It’s probably an easier story to understand because that’s what we think is the beginning of the modern era,” said Carla Newport, Filoli’s chief executive.Like many historic sites in recent years, Filoli’s curators have worked hard to highlight less palatable aspects of its existence, such as the discrimination and racism that were prevalent in its heyday.Newport, who came to Filory in 2016 after working at the Winterthur Museum in Delaware, said future exhibits will be influenced by such efforts to provide a more nuanced look at the estate’s past.
“We’re very focused on the two families living in these houses, the stories are great, but there’s a lot more here,” Newport said.
The land occupied by the estate is in the traditional territory of Ramaytush Ohlone, an indigenous people who lived in the Bay Area before the Spanish occupation and missionary system wiped out their population.(The estate now has a land claim on its website and a visitor center with an exhibit of locals who once lived there.)
The exhibit “Stories of Resilience” I saw in March highlighted stories of Filoli employees facing adversity because of their nationality, race or ethnicity.For example, the estate’s Japanese housekeeper, Teikichi Taga, was forcibly relocated during World War II and held in an internment camp with his family.An information group noted that census records did not show any black employees at Filoli, and both families lived on the estate, noting that the most popular jazz musicians at the time, such as Duke Ellington and Louis Armstrong, were not among them. musicians performing there.
The formal garden combines two English garden styles – the 18th century Georgian garden and the more formal English Renaissance style – and was completed in 1929.Created by landscape architect Bruce Potter and horticulturalist Isabella Worn, the beautiful and well-maintained space is divided into “rooms” separated by hedges and trees, daffodils and tulips in spring, Summer is a spectacular display of roses. Through the rainbow-graded blooms of the rose garden, I turn around quietly, letting the sun warm my face and the wind blowing the hem of my skirt around my ankles. Many families go out for Mother’s Day , including my family, the bright colors and unhurried atmosphere make everything easy.
Brick and wrought iron garden gates and gates, and the many mountains of wisteria and ivy that connect the rooms, are one of the few reminders to pass the time.My favorite part of the walled garden is the wedding venue, a large formal area subdivided into individual rooms next to the glass-paneled garden house, a terraced grassy staircase for Beren, the daughter of the Ross family. Ness was married here in 1941.
Another gem of the property, the sunken garden is filled with water lilies and is flanked by dramatic flower beds, which gleam in the warmer months sun, just like on winter holiday nights.My mother and I spent a leisurely afternoon in front of the stunning pool, on loungers under the glass awning, among potted flowers.
The estate was built for more than just aesthetics, although it does have that aesthetic.It’s a work area with a nature reserve with a peaceful mile-long trail open to hikers, orchards and an apiary that produces honey that bees pollinate the lavender fields and flowers.Local community groups also participate in on-site nature and history education programs.The estate has remained open for most of the pandemic and has adjusted procedures based on state and local guidelines; the county recently lifted indoor mask requirements for vaccinated guests, but unvaccinated visitors still need to wear Face mask.
My family’s visit to the house decorated for Christmas and the garden full of lights started on an ominous note, with the omicron casting a growing shadow for the holidays at the end of the long work week.It was raining heavily when my soon-to-be sister-in-law joined us one brisk December night.This was the first time I had to cheer myself up to visit.We were in high spirits as we strolled through the warm house, filled with towering Christmas trees with baubles the size of my head, and recreated sweets that would have been at holiday parties in the early 20th century Supply, giving me a toothache.
But even with our soaked shoes and icy noses, walking through the garden in the rain had a magical feeling I wasn’t ready for.Raindrops fall on the ground, refracting the bulbs that adorn the trees and shrubs around us, casting a gleaming light that guides us through dark paths.The four of us emerged from the Woodland Garden, an informal area of ​​camellias and staghorn ferns, to find ourselves on a paved patio with drink holders.Muttering to Ella Fitzgerald’s more subtly sung Christmas songs, the four of us clung to each other under our umbrellas — and a glass of mulled wine.It felt like our own pandemic-era version of a glamorous garden party—and my own movie moment.
This estate, about 30 minutes south of San Francisco, is a National Trust for Historic Preservation and has been designated a California Historic Landmark.Its charming gardens display a vast array of seasonal plants, flowers and trees.Visitors can tour the houses on their own and hike in the nature reserve.Download the map from its website.A shop sells garden supplies, household items, live plants, honey and fruit butters from the estate’s farm, and a cafe sells meals to go, pastries and drinks.Reservation required.Gardens are open daily from 10am to 5pm; 11am to 4:30pm; check website for times of seasonal events such as Filoli’s holiday.Tickets include access to the House, Gardens and Estate Walk, a one-mile self-guided walk.General admission is $25 for adults; $22 for seniors 65 and older; $20 for students, teachers, and military; $15 for children 5-17; check website for special event admissions.
Potential travelers should consider local and national public health directives regarding the pandemic before planning any travel.Travel Health Notice information can be found on the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s interactive map showing travel advisories by destination, as well as the CDC’s Travel Health Notice webpage.


Post time: Jun-01-2022